Author Archives: Fignatius

Quick Questions: Pork Chops


I just got a question from my lovely friend Jessica about weeknight pork chops and how to cook them.  There is a stand-by method I use that I picked up from Cooks Illustrated a few years ago that yields the juiciest pork chops I make.  You end up sacrificing a little on the browning, but you can make up for that with a quick pan sauce.  Basically, start your pork chops (seasoned with salt and pepper) in a cold pan (add some olive oil before the chops) that you keep covered as you bring them up to medium-high heat.  This allows the chops to cook gradually, preserving some of the juiciness.  Depending on thickness, I do about 7-10 minutes for the first side, covered, and 5-7 minutes for the second side.  Once the pork is cooked, remove it to a plate and cover to rest while you put together a quick sauce. 

You should have some liquid in the pan that you can quickly turn into something tasty with a dollop of dijon mustard, some chopped fresh herbs (thyme and rosemary are great), and a little pressed garlic, if you are in the mood for that.  If you need more liquid, I suggest you use a little of the vermouth you have lying around that you are not using in martinis; it is a cheap and flavorful way to add some brightness to the sauce.  White wine or a little lemon juice will work here, too.  Adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper and spoon over chops.  Serve with your favorite sides and a nice chilled Italian white.  Heaven.

Weeknight Dinner: Skewers


Chicken Skewer Plate

Skewers are a testament to the fact that a little planning ahead can yield super-satisfying results.  Though marinating your protein before cooking is not absolutely necessary, it does make for a much tastier end result, especially if you are cooking in a broiler or grill pan, which impart none of the additional flavor you get from a real grill.  I have a few marinades that I can pull together from items in my pantry and fridge, which allow me to control things like saltiness and sweetness, but you should feel free to use whatever you like. Continue reading

Rapini


Rapini

With the holidays behind us, I am repeating a time-honored tradition at the start of this year.  Having consumed the better portion of my own weight in cookies, chocolate, and heavy meals, I am ready to get back to a normal, heavy-on-the-vegetables, lean protein, whole grain diet.  Part of what I love about this time of year is the fact that I start to really crave greens and, in spite of the guilt I feel about leaving a big carbon footprint, I just can’t help myself at the grocery store produce section.

Because my need for green vegetables is so strong, I am extra-willing to try new things over and over until I find a way in which I like them.  I did this with collard greens long ago, and recently had the same kind of revival with brussels sprouts.  This time around, I am kickin’ it with some rapini, which is also called broccoli rabe.  Part of me has always been a bit wary of this vegetable, maybe because I have always been of the mind that there is no way you could improve on regular broccoli.  However, once you taste this green (which looks much like the love child of broccoli and mustard greens), you’ll see what a different flavor it has from anything else you’ve eaten.

A lovely friend of a friend, Michelle Maisto*, has written a marvelous book called The Gastronomy of Marriage, which is as much a love letter to food as it is to her husband.  Her literary (and culinary) treatment of rapini really resonates with me, describing how she “[craves] bitter greens like a thirst,” and sharing an anecdote about trying to get her husband to enjoy rapini, which he politely eats and dislikes (much like the Bun).  Maisto backs herself up with a tenet of Jeffrey Steingarten, food critic for Vogue, who claims that food aversions can be overcome with repeated consumption.  Though I find Steingarten’s TV personality abhorrent, I do find some of his food philosophy insightful.

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