Cook at Home!


I am just finishing up Christopher Kimball’s account of an extremely ambitious dinner party where he serves his guests a 12-course meal in high Victorian style, using mostly techniques (and a giant wood-burning stove) of that time period.  Where I am not particularly taken with Kimball’s writing, this book tells a great story, conjures some laugh-out-loud funny mental pictures, and, ultimately, achieves much more than just an account of making a crazy dinner.  I think Kimball does his best writing when he goes indulgent about cooking, as in this passage.

“There is no tomorrow. Time cannot be saved and spent. There is only today and how we choose to live it. The future is unknowable and unpredictable; it offers no clear path to happiness. Science will not save us. Each of us, then, needs to cobble together a daily routine filled with basic human pleasures, wedded, to be sure, to the best that modernity has to offer. It is a life of compromise rather than extremes. It it s a touch of the old and a taste of the new. And cooking, it seems to me, offers the most direct way back into the very heart of good life. It is useful, it is necessary, it is social, and it offers immediate pleasure and satisfaction. It connects with the past and ensures the future. Standing in front of a hot oven, we remind ourselves of who we are, of what we are capable of and how we might stumble back to the center of happiness. Effort and pleasure go hand in hand.” — Christopher Kimball, Fannie’s Last Supper.

I know that cooking isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. There are times when I come home from work or the gym and all I want to do is eat, not cook. But there are other times when I have no excuse for not cooking, and frankly, I love that. Sitting down and thinking about what we’re going to have for dinner is, admittedly, something I do often, and with pleasure. And I like the aspect of it being social, even when it is just a friend and myself. Dinner preparation is the time when we might talk about our days, our frustrations, or even just work in silence to collaborate on something delicious. I think about what brings the people I love together and, more than anything, it is food – the preparation, sharing, and consumption thereof. Even when you live alone, I think that act of making food for yourself is a treat, and one you don’t have to feel guilty about (provided you are making something even reasonably healthy).

As Kimball states (and implies), the everyday act of cooking goes well beyond the act itself; it is an everyday act through which we might find ourselves a little more at ease with the world, maybe because it is an everyday act that the world shares together.

Savory Bread Pudding


Savory Bread Pudding With Mushrooms, Leeks, and Canadian Bacon

This dish started with an inspiration from a restaurant here in Chicago that has since closed. Good thing I took good notes during the few times we had breakfast there! The versions they offered were leek, ham, and Gruyere, as well as one with tomato, bacon, and Cheddar. I think the combinations are really just up to your imagination and your tastes.

The base is just the same as any breakfast casserole or strata that I would make – stale or day-old bread cut into cubes, then soaked in a custard mixture. For these, I wanted to make individual servings in ramekins, so I cut the cubes of bread on the small side so that they would be easy to stuff into the dishes. The custard mixture is about one cup of milk (or half-and-half, if you are in a more celebratory than healthy mood) to three eggs. Depending on the amount of bread you have, you can increase or decrease the amount of custard mixture – just make enough to soak the bread completely. Season with salt and pepper as you would scrambled eggs.

I got a little carried away with ingredients, but I just couldn’t resist. I started with some leeks (one large or two small), rinsed them thoroughly (they have a considerable amount of grit since they grow in sandy soil), and cooked them in some olive oil until they began to soften (a little kosher salt helps this process along). I removed those from the pan and sauteed some sliced cremini mushrooms in butter in the same pan, adding a little salt again, along with some freshly ground black pepper and fresh thyme leaves (thyme and mushrooms is one of my favorite combinations). In addition, I had some Canadian bacon on hand that I really wanted to incorporate.

The best way to bring this all together is to cube your bread into a large mixing bowl, pour over the custard, and mix with your hands. That way, you’ll be able to tell if you made enough custard to soak the bread. You can always whip up a little more egg and milk to add to it, if it seems too dry. Then, mix in your vegetables and/or meat and/or cheese in the same manner (hands) to make sure you evenly distribute – just make sure you let anything you precook to cool a bit before adding it to the mix. I used shredded Gruyere here, along with some Fontina that I needed to use up – make sure you add a nice little handful to the top before you put the bread pudding into the oven for some added browned goodness.

If you bake in (buttered) ramekins, place them on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake at 350 until golden and bubbly (about 20-30 minutes, depending on your oven). If you bake in a (buttered) casserole (like a traditional breakfast strata), it will probably take a little longer; browned and bubbling is the goal.

Cocktail Hour: The Sidecar


Brandy Sidecar

I think Brandy gets a bad rap.

I am not really sure why, either.  I mean, it seems to be relegated to the smoking jackets-and-snifters crowd or drunks passed out on the sidewalk.  There is a middle ground, and I think it comes in the form of several old-school cocktails.  The first of these is the Sidecar, which has a sophisticated, yet accessible quality to it.  I am not sure where the name comes from (I read something about it being named for a US Army captain), but I like to think of it as a good, reliable vehicle for a good time. Something about the sweetness of the orange liqueur mixed with the deep flavors of the brandy, highlighted with the fresh spark of the lemon juice makes for a perfect concoction. I can’t guarantee that you’ll gain any stability from this sidecar, but after one or two, you shouldn’t be driving a motorcycle, anyway. Enjoy, and happy weekend early!

Recipe:
4 parts brandy
1 part triple sec
1 part lemon juice

Mix all ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Strain into a cocktail or coupe glass and garnish with a twist.