Monthly Archives: August 2012

Restaurant Preview: The Peasantry


I am an established subscriber of Tasting Table Chicago. I love the format – I can get a quick little review of a restaurant or new product or food shop and move on. The problem with this is that I very often forget about the new places and get stuck in a rut with the places I know and love. Over the weekend, I went in search of a new brunch place just south where I live (in Lakeview) in Lincoln Park. Now, I know that there are a few good places to eat in Lincoln Park, but they are few and far between. Mostly, you’re gonna get very high end, very good food (a la North Pond) or basic bar food (which is sometimes good, but attracts a certain rowdy crowd in this neck of the woods). Imagine my surprise when I stumbled upon the Peasantry. They call it “elevated street food.” I call it delicious.

Seems like the latest trend in this neighborhood (already set by the very excellent 2 Sparrows, just around the corner) is clever, locally-sourced, well-executed food. If this continues into the unforeseeable future, color me happy. As I discussed with friends over dinner last night, the most popular restaurants in the Lakeview/Lincoln Park neighborhoods tend to be low-brow and unintimidating. In other words, they tend to have bad-to-mediocre food, basic service, and uninspired decor. At the end of every meal I have in one of these establishments, I say to myself, “why didn’t I just eat at home?!”

The Peasantry manages to be accessible without compromising innovation or quality. The food feels at once both familiar and fresh. The service was friendly without being too familiar. I’ll reserve any further accolades until I have more meals, but a first impression like this warrants a little praise. I look forward future visits and to any comments readers have about this promising spot in Lincoln Park.

Quick Questions: Green Bean Abundance!


So, I just got a message from my friend Mike about what to do with an abundance of green beans. Specifically, he asks:

“We got this thing from Frog  N Snail* that had the following:
– fava beans
– sliced asparagus
– kale succotash
– corn
– green beans
– lima beans

Since we have an ABUNDANCE of green beans at the moment, I was thinking of making this thing tomorrow, but I’m not sure what will bring them all together (like salt, pepper, oil – I have no idea) – any thoughts on how I could tie those all in?”

The great thing about this time of year is that you don’t need to fuss make delicious food; with a bounty of fresh ingredients, all you need is simple seasoning (as Mike suggests) and, in my opinion, a little care in preparation. To bring the vegetables that Mike lists together, I think you have a couple of options. The first would be a soup that highlights freshness, maybe something along the lines of this.

The other, and what I think is probably more appealing for the next few warm days, is a salad that can be served at room temperature or even chilled. The tricky thing here is trying to keep the green beans bright green and vibrant – not an easy task. All the other ingredients (favas, asparagus, kale, corn, limas) should be steamed or boiled, and then immediately shocked in ice water to stop the cooking and preserve color. The green beans should be treated the same way, but should be added to the mix last, just to try and keep them as green as possible. To dress the salad, I say go simple – some lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. If you have some fresh herbs on hand, I think some chopped basil or chives mixed in right before serving would be a nice little addition.

If anyone has additional ideas for Mike, speak up!

*Undoubtedly one of my favorite new spots in Chicago

Cocktail Hour: the Classic Gin and Tonic


Good ol’ G’n’T

Some SW readers (especially those with whom I am friends on Facebook) may have noticed that my Aunt Suzie often comments on cocktail posts with something like, “I still love a good ol’ G’n’T!” She’s absolutely right. At the end of a summer (or spring, or fall…) workday, I rarely want to fuss with a complicated cocktail, no matter how delicious the end result might be. In this instance, a little gin, a little tonic, and a little lime are all you need to achieve a perfectly balanced drink.

I do credit Suzie (not my biological aunt, but much closer to that distinction than most of my parents’ brothers and sisters) with introducing me to the gin and tonic, though probably too early for me to truly appreciate it. At the time, I preferred the champagne (doctored with a touch of Chambord) that was offered at the table. Before this introduction, I have never tasted quinine. It’s one of the those flavors (like Campari or Strega) that induces a “face;” a physical reaction to the flavor that shows up in the mouth, eyes, nose, and even ears. Usually, it resembles a wince. Given time and the appropriate amount of familiarity, one develops an affinity for these unusual flavors. They become desirable, and even quench some kind of unique thirst.

Now, having consumed more gin and tonics than I’d ever be able to recall, I associate them with many pleasant memories. Any and all interactions with my dearest friend Tim in London and stateside. Ridiculously youthful evenings at Club Cafe in Boston. Summer nights with Suzie in her beautiful, idyllic backyard in Pittsburgh. And, of course, ballroom dancing with Christine umpteen years ago, where we drank them for the very first time. We noted the bitter quinine and the fact that gin tastes like pine trees. How very young we were.

So, here’s to my fabulous Aunt Suzie, without whom the joys of the gin and tonic would’ve been kept from me for at least a few more years (until Tim came along). To her health, her happiness, and her indomitable spirit. Cheers!