Shallots Web

Broiled Chicken

White meat chicken gets pretty boring pretty quickly, so I am always in the market for a new marinade. Sadly, I usually end up doing the same one over and over; partly because it is so easy, and partly because I always have the ingredients on hand. As I understand it, a marinade (much like a good cocktail) should have several interchangeable components:

• Acid
• Fat
• Salt/umami
• Bite (garlic/onion/chili)
• Green (herbs/ginger)

So, to meet these requirements, my go-to is a combination of citrus juice, olive oil, kosher salt, garlic, and whatever herbs I have on hand (today, I have thyme and tarragon). Given these rules, though, I think I need to break out of my shell…next up, I think I am going to do lime, sesame oil, soy, garlic, and ginger.

Now, dear reader, I ask…what’s your favorite marinade?

Caprese Salad

I know that it is officially autumn, but I can’t help but hang on to some of the vestiges of this most recent summer, especially with the little heatwave we are having this week.  I think it was one of the very best summers I can remember – certainly one of the sunniest.  All that warm sun made for an excellent crop of tomatoes this year, and I think there are still some left at the farmer’s markets and grocery stores that are almost perfect.  To honor these beautiful fruits (and the tireless farmers that grew them), I suggest one of the simplest, most fulfilling, and tastiest combinations: the Caprese salad.  If you’ve never made one, you’ll be surprised how simple they are to make.  All you need are some simple ingredients and a good sharp knife.

Use the freshest mozzarella you can find (just ask the folks at the deli counter where to find it in the store) and whatever heirloom tomatoes you can find.  Slice each of these into slices of similar thickness, then arrange alternately on a serving plate.  Tuck fresh, whole basil leaves in between each layer, then sprinkle the whole array with kosher salt and fresh black pepper.  Drizzle with good olive oil and balsamic vinegar, if desired.  Serve with a light Italian white wine (like pinot grigio) or a good European pilsner (like Grolsch or Peroni or Stella Artois).  A simple, perfect way to hold on to the summer just a little while longer.

The Final Issue

I am sure it was the case with many people, but I was shocked to hear of Conte Nast’s decision to halt the publication of Gourmet magazine.  Though I’ve only been a subscriber for the past three or four years, I enjoyed the magazine greatly (the only strictly food magazine I get), not only for recipes, but for information about food culture and restaurants (as well as the gorgeous photography).  Something about perusing the pages of the publication gave me a comforting pleasure on many Sunday mornings, when the day was up to me and the recipes would inspire culinary adventures.

As my friend Rikki mentioned, Gourmet was as much about the connections people have through food as it was about the food itself.  The pages and pages of photos showed happy gatherings of people in a vast array of aesthetics, from sleek and cool to grainy and homespun.  Likewise, as much as the magazine inspired me to cook, it also inspired me to share meals with my friends and loved ones, from fancy plated dishes to family-style Sunday dinners.  Though a great number of my closest friends are far flung and cannot always make it to dinner on Saturday evening, Gourmet inspired me to call people to the table, to share something we all love (good food), and to share an experience together.

Apple Cranberry Pie (w/Pie Bird)

We are relying more and more on electronic communications, which is brilliant for occasions when money and time get in the way of gathering together, but email, instant messaging, and texting all create a barrier between us.  There is nothing like seeing and hearing your friend throw their head back in laughter, or watching the face they make when they take the first bite of the apple-cranberry pie your husband just made.  You can’t replace those moments with something virtual; they are first-hand, and they are to be cherished.

Meggie always says that one of her favorite things to hear is the phrase, “I’ll make you a plate.”  I couldn’t agree more.  It is like hearing, “I know you have to go, but I just want to let this evening linger a little longer for you.”  In some way, having a plate made for you is like being given a tangible memory.  Just as you’ll go home and sit on your couch and enjoy that delicious meal once more, you’ll also savor the memory of the evening thereafter, maybe because of the food, maybe because of something that happened.  Just remember that it was the food that brought you there in the first place.

Thanks, Gourmet (and especially Ruth Reichl) for many good years of bringing people together with the excuse of needing to eat something.  We made the Ward 8 Cocktail from the pages of your October 1962 issue and found it to be perfect for an autumn evening; proof that you may be out of print, but you’ll continue to inspire.